Sunday, 22 October 2017

Last day in India

Our flight leaves late in the evening, so we have "day use" of the hotel room before the transfer to the airport.   There seemed to be some shopping fairly close to the hotel, so I went for a walk after breakfast to explore the possibilities.  I located a couple of "plazas", but at about 9.30 am on a Sunday morning, things were pretty dead.   However later in the day things were more active but for the most part the shops (all very small) in these complexes clearly cater for the locals (this is a middle to upper range residential area, including several gated communities) and so had little to interest us.  Nevertheless, it was worthwhile making the effort to get out and about.

Shopping complex
In the meantime, perhaps some reflections are in order.   First, we took medical advice as to vaccinations and the like before coming to India, and either they've been effective or the care we've taken with what we've eaten and so on has paid off.   But we weren't warned about the biggest health danger, at least in the Delhi area:   it's the pollution, and the respiratory issues that result from it.    I've never before felt effects of this nature, but it's getting even to me.   Maybe instead of saying "don't drink the water", the advice should be "don't breathe the air"?  (Just joking).


 Secondly, changing money.    I've got a debit account that gives me a good exchange rate, so where possible when travelling I like to use ATMs.    I didn't do this in Thailand, however, because my research showed the ATMs all charge a relatively high fee and the money changers are very competitive.   In India, although there are money changers around, they aren't everywhere (perhaps foreign tourists are more widely dissipated here).    So I sought out the ATMs, which are fairly widespread (not everywhere, though).  The one I found near Connaught Place worked.    But after that I tried a number but - nope!   I suspect that they had all been "drained" for the Diwali holiday!

And just a random thought about electrical safety.   All the hotels we've stayed in have been very nice, but in at least a couple of places, a glance around the corner has revealed some "interesting" electical arrangements!   Still, given the wiring arrangements out on the streets, perhaps I ought not be surprised.
Connection to light in cupboard!
Hairdryer lead!

[Post updated 22 Oct 17]

Saturday, 21 October 2017

Back to Delhi

We made an early start for the nearly 300 km drive back to Delhi, or more precisely, Gurgaon, which appears to be a recently developed precinct and technically is just outside the Delhi urban area (it's in the state of Haryana).    However, for all intents and purposes it seems to be part of the Delhi urban sprawl, and is connected to Delhi by the new Metro train.  The airport is on the same side of the city, so being here should facilitate our departure arrangements late tomorrow.

Apart from a short "shopping opportunity" at a carpet factory and a coffee stop, we headed straight up the highway.    This was dual carriageway for most of the way, and has a couple of toll points.   But toll roads here aren't limited access!   You still pass through towns of various sizes, and there are roadworks and slowings for no apparent reason (sometimes with humps in the road!), as well as various traffic issues, such as slow moving trucks, tractors, auto-rickshaws in the towns.....whatever!

It was nice to get to our accommodation in time for a late lunch.  This evening we head out for dinner and a "Bollywood" show (whatever that means!).
Anyone for a carpet?  (Yes, a couple of our group made purchases)

Modern buildings at Jaipur, not far from the shanties

Toll point

Typical truck - peripheral vision for the driver apparently isn't required!

Jaipur

Jaipiur as a city was somewhat of a disappointment.     Yes, the hotel is lovely (the best yet, but located a distance from the centre), and the Divali dinner last night was great, but I expected more from the old town, described as the "Pink city".   In fact, it's all rather shabby.    We drove past the Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds), and continued to the Amber Fort (named after its location, not its colour).   This involves a jeep ride for the climb up the hill;  an interesting experience.  The Fort is, as we've now come to expect, a series of chambers and courtyards, and quite impressive in its own way.

This was followed by a "shopping opportunity" (featuring semi-precious stones, for which Jaipur is traditionally noted), lunch and then a visit to Jantar Mantar, a historic observatory  and the City Palace.   The observatory was fascinating.  A guide explained how each of the large instruments was intended to operate, but since I'm not an astronomer, I couldn't really follow the details.

Dinner in the evening was at Ikaki Niwas, a B&B operated by a Rajasthani family. It's operated by a husband and wife couple, and as is typical, the house (a large one) is owned by the husband's parents, who also live there.  The husband spent some time working for a large US company and both he and his wife speak excellent English, yet the family arrangements are still very traditional.   We were briefly introduced to the mother.   Dinner was preceded by a cooking demonstration, mainly conducted by Devika (but the husband took over briefly when she went to settle the 3 month old baby!)   At dinner I sat next to Devika (the wife), and the interesting discussion around the table covered matters such as arranged marriages (as hers was), big weddings, family life, the prevalence of mobile phones in India (even amongst those who at first sight might be thought to have other prior calls on their means) and more.

Palace of the Winds

Gateway, Amber Fort

Decorative detail

One of the courtyards

View into chambers

Looking out from Fort

Elephants to take tourists up and down (optional!)

Observatory instrument

Part of City Palace

Shabbiness, Jaipur
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Friday, 20 October 2017

Agra to Jaipur

It was Diwali, and we had a long and very full day travelling from Agra to Jaipur across the flatness of Rajasthan.   So much to fit in!   I can't do it justice in this post, so may have to come back later with more details.   We explored the deserted (but very well preserved) palace of Fatehpur Sikri (occupied only for 14 years by Emperor Akbar), had lunch at the Raj's palace at Bharatpur (now as luxury hotel), inspected the Chand Baori Stepwell at Abhaneri before arriving in Jaipur to a lavish Diwali Festival dinner.
Bus decorated for Diwali

One of several courtyards at Fatehpur Sikri

Detail in the stonework

Stepwell

Welcome to Dewali dinner!

Fireworks for Diwali, and then more fireworks!

Agra Fort

Our early morning visit to the Taj Mahal was followed by a civilised breakfast, then the obligatory tour of a "marble inlay workshop" complete with an excessive amount of time while captive to allow for "shopping".   This was expensive even by Australian standards, but these interludes are part of the deal when signing up for a tour, and a number of our co-travellers appear to revel in every "shopping opportunity" that comes along.   Oh well.

We then headed to Agra Fort.    This is indeed an imposing structure. Much of it was build by Emperor Akbar (whose tomb we visited the previous day).   It's largely built from red sandstone and includes an enormous array of courtly buildings, rooms and courtyards, representing a whole range of styles.

From the higher parts of the structure, you look out over the Yamuna Rover and can see the Taj Mahal in the middle distance.    By the time the tour finished, we were ready for a pleasant buffet lunch before declining the opportunity of an auto-rickshaw tour. Instead we rested up for dinner which was in the hotel.

The following day we headed to Jaipur.   A long day, and it was Diwali, so more to come on this (when I get a few spare moments!)
 







Wednesday, 18 October 2017

The Taj Mahal

Well, that's why you visit Agra, isn't it?    In fact, it's why you come to India - to see the Taj Mahal?  Well, actually no, because there are lots of monuments as well as other sights.    But, at 6 am, we were lining up ready for when the gates opened.   And yes, the Taj Mahal is magnificent with a little early morning river mist, and to see the changing colours as the sun rises is impressive.

You could indeed sit there and contemplate its beauty and appreciate the effort and workmanship that went into its construction.


For a few moments you might even forget about the photographers prowling around, whose intrusiveness fades into nothing by comparison with the guys selling a wide range of trinkets back at the car park - the most persistent we've yet encountered (and that's saying a lot!).   And there was hardly any queue for entry at 8 am, when we left.







To Agra

The road from Delhi to Agra is mostly a tolled expressway so we moved along quite nicely.    However, by the time we had a morning tea stop then lunch before checking in, it was mid-afternoon before we were established in our (very nice) accommodation.    It wasn't long before we were off to the 3rd Mughal (Akbar) emperor's tomb at Sikandra, 4 km northwest of Agra (and reached by means of congested local roads).

The tomb complex includes over 100 acres of well-maintained gardens, and includes a large entrance building as well as the mausoleum complex itself.

I could add more, but we need to have an early night because we're up early in the morning to see the Taj Mahal.
Entrance gate complex


Mausoleum


Mausoleum

Tomb

Street scene, Agra